Re: Modifying an X10 SR227 Power Outlet

ioBridge Connect Forums Hardware General Hardware Re: Modifying an X10 SR227 Power Outlet

This topic contains 7 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  fillibar 8 years, 5 months ago.

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  • #2789

    fillibar
    Member

    I have not been able to find instructions for what I am attempting to do yet, so if anyone has done this, or knows of a page that has it, let me know. I am trying to turn an SR227 Single-Controlled outlet into a duplex-controlled outlet. I just want both outlets to go on and off at the same time. Yes, I know they have Duplex outlets out there (the XPR series) but they cost almost twice as much and can also pass through the load line to control more outlets. I HAVE a couple of those. What I want, is being able to modify the SR227s because it would be useful to me to have both outlets WITHOUT an extra load line to deal with. So far I cracked one open, and it looks like I will be able to do it… I will try to post pictures and such as I try actually doing this, probably this weekend.

    #3880

    fillibar
    Member

    I started work on the outlet… Here are some pictures so far. Not quite done yet and it is untested, but I hope to have that done today. In addition I will post pictures to show an XPR Duplex Outlet for comparison.

    This is a basic image of the back of an SR227 (note the two screws):
    800sr227_back.jpg

    Step 1, removing the back cover by removing the back two screws (note the inner two screws):
    800sr227_step1.jpg

    Step 2, removing the front cover by removing the inner two screws. Here is where you see the interesting bits from my perspective. There is a copper wire to the left that is apparently glued between the load line and one of the outlets. In addition there is a gap just to the left of the brass "peg" on the second bar. This is what keeps both outlets from being controlled. So the "fix" is to remove the copper wire and bridge the gap:
    800sr227_step2.jpg

    Step 3, pulling the load bar back for easier access. It makes the gap easier to see also:
    800sr227_step3.jpg

    Step 4, removing the copper wire. Behind the terminal that the copper wire was attached to (not the load line connection, the other one) is a black wire going through to the boards. This needs to be moved over to the load line:
    800sr227_step4.jpg

    #3881

    fillibar
    Member

    Sorry about the delay here folks. I should be posting some final pictures this evening. It turns out that my original soldering iron (a little 15W model) could not handle the task. It produced poor solder joints because the wires and brass bars were just too massive. I picked up a 40W and redid them. Pretty good, except that little black wire running to the boards snapped at the lead line. I fixed that, put a different load line in (wanted a solid wire instead for this) and managed to have a successful test before calling it a night. I also added a load line out so that it is the equivalent of an XPR module… Although I still would not rate it for the higher draw (the SR227 is 15A, the XPR is 20A) even though the bars are the same (and the bridge I used is 12G wire). One other thought I might do eventually is kill the local override feature these have (meant so you can turn a plugged-in item on and off and on again to switch the overall module on). I am thinking of using a couple of these to "baby proof" a couple outlets so it would be better to make sure they stay off no matter what.

    #3882

    fillibar
    Member

    Here are the additional steps. I actually have a second one now completed, so I used it for a picture.
    Step 5, solder the bridge across the bar gap. I used a piece of 12G wire for this:
    800sr227_step5.jpg

    Step 6, solder the small black wire that supplies power to the board to the load line/bar. This can sometimes be tricky, but with a little slack from the wire (there is plenty under the board, just getting more passed through is the problem) it becomes much easier:
    800sr227_step6.jpg

    Step 7, reassemble and enjoy both outlets.

    Other Options or work:
    A) You may have noticed in Step 5 a blue wire leading away at the bottom right. This is the load out line (like an XPR has) that I put on my first modified SR227. I did not put one on the second (I did not need it for the second one) used for the picture of Step 6.
    B) I am trying a method to get rid of the local override feature, but have not tested it yet, so I will not describe how I did it until I prove it works.

    Note:
    For any of this, you are dealing with electrical equipment that IS NOT meant for the user to modify. Do so at your own risk, and understand you have completely voided any warranty. At the same time, please tell us what you did and how it worked for you, it is that spirit that keeps things going much of the time.

    #3883

    fillibar
    Member

    As promised, here are some pictures of an XPR module I have also.
    XPR back still closed:
    800xpr_back.jpg

    XPR back opened:
    800xpr_open_back.jpg

    XPR front opened:
    800xpr_open_front.jpg

    As you can see the XPR and the SR227 are very similar in the electrical hardware department. I am not sure how the XPR gets a higher amperage rating when they use the same gauge wires, same bars, and same switching mechanism. Part of what helps differentiate them I guess. Most home users do not use 20A from one outlet anyways, so it is a pretty moot point.

    #3884

    jason
    Member

    How has this been working out for you?  It hasn’t caught on fire or anything I hope.
    The two different models do look identical…  they must come out of the same mold!

    #3885

    fillibar
    Member

    So far so good. I have three modules complete now and two have been running in one of my power boards for the aquarium. Both outlets are being controlled successfully. The one down point so far is that I have not found a way to disable the local control feature. I found a posting online explaining it, but maybe I am dense without pictures. I attempted to follow what they recommended, but it did not work. Thinking I had it wrong I tried another method, still no luck. Maybe someone will figure it out and let me know (I hope). Or maybe I will stumble across it as I continue. I have decided to modify more of the SR227s I have (I have a bunch) and I think I will take a crack at the local control on each one until I get it or run out. I do not want to do TOO many things on a single module as I might not be able to repair my damage.

    In summary, after one week of use, an on/off cycle every day, no problems. No unusual noise, smell, or functional differences.

    #3886

    fillibar
    Member

    I figured a new status would be useful. I now have 4 modified SR227s in daily use. 1 even has a load line leading from it to normal outlets that are being controlled. No problems yet with use (post initial testing). One thing I will mention is make sure when you resolder the small black wire to the main line wire/bus that you have a good solder join there. Otherwise the module will click on and immediately click off. It is good to test the module (use an electrical plug connected to it) before installing it permanently in something.

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